You've decided to use bead stringing wire because it suits
the look you want for your project and you like the idea of the durability of
wire. Now, you've got to figure out which wire to use.
The beading wire you choose to string your beads on depends
on the type of jewelry you are making (and often simply on personal
preference), but there are a few basic guidelines concerning wire hardness,
wire shape, and wire size to help you make an informed selection:
Dead Soft:
Wire is extremely soft and flexible. It can be
easily bent and is excellent for making rounded shapes. It works great for wire
wrapping and sculpting projects. The disadvantage is that it doesn't hold its
shape when weight or pressure is applied.
Half Hard:
Wire is slightly stiffer. It's excellent for
making tight bends, for making loops, and for wrapping around itself. Maintain
its shape under stress.
Hard Wire is very stiff, easily holds its shape, and is
excellent for clasps. It may be very difficult to use for intricate
designs.
Wire Shapes:
Jewelry wire is made in several shapes. The
"shape" refers to the shape of the cut end. Wire can be round,
square, or half-round. Round wire is the most commonly used, but square and
half-round wire are available. Half round wire can be wrapped around other
pieces of wire to connect them. The corners of square wire are used to add
visual interest; square wire can also be twisted to create pleasing
effects.Wire Sizes:
In general, always pick the largest size wire that will fit
through the hole in the beads you want to string. The size or thickness of wire
is measured in gauge or millimeters. Wire used in jewelry making ranges from
10-gauge to 36-gauge. The smaller the gauge number, the thicker the wire will
be.
Here are the most common wire sizes:
14-16 gauge (1.65 mm-1.3 mm) Used for clasps, napkin rings,
or as a base for stiff bracelets,
18 gauge (1.0 mm) Used for clasps, beads with large holes,
lampwork, metal, or as a base.
20 gauge (.80 mm) Used for findings such as earwires, jump
rings, and headpins and for stringing glass beads.
22 gauge (.65 mm) A very useful size because the wire is
fairly thick, but most beads still fit on it.
24-26 gauge (.5 mm-.4 mm) Suitable for wrapping very small
beads and for stringing beads with small holes.
28-30 gauge (.32 mm-.26 mm) Used for free form wrapping of
small beads (like seed beads) and for knitting and crocheting with wire.
Choosing the bead stringing wire that best fits your project
isn't hard if you're familiar with the basics of wire hardness, wire shape, and
wire size. Have fun and don't be afraid to experiment to achieve the wired
design you're dreaming of.